From Riverside to Tarzana, readers express love for Jewish delis – Daily News

2022-09-24 01:23:45 By : Mr. Volin Huang

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Before getting to your reactions on my recent column on Jewish delis, I have to correct an error: Mort’s Deli in Tarzana is very much alive.

Among the tchotchkes in the exhibit at the Skirball Cultural Center, “‘I’ll Have What She’s Having’: The Jewish Deli” (which is in place through Sept. 18), is a matchbook from Mort’s. As I toured the exhibit, I dutifully jotted a note to myself about any deli in the Inland Empire, San Gabriel Valley and San Fernando Valley, all served by our news group’s fine publications, and employed as many as possible in my column.

But I’m afraid I misinterpreted my notes, committed a glitch (“a slip” in Yiddish) and listed Mort’s among the goners.

Because that column ran in the L.A. Daily News, which serves the San Fernando Valley, a lot of readers were in a position to attest that Mort’s is a survivor and that yours truly had been farmisht (“mixed up, confused”).

“Mort’s Deli in Tarzana is definitely NOT CLOSED!!” exclaimed Sandra Berube by email. “Although they are a small deli, their pastrami, hand-sliced lox and matzo ball soup are outstanding.”

“Great article in the Daily News today but Mort’s is still open,” wrote Ray Wolkoff.

“Mort’s is still in business. Just called them to confirm. Perhaps you’ve confused them with Solley’s or Jerry’s,” wrote Uve Sillat of Culver City, giving me more credit than I deserve. Sillat added: “Mort’s demise would be shocking indeed.”

“Please note that Mort’s Deli is alive and well, thriving in the same location on Clark Street in Tarzana, where it’s been for lo these many years,” Sam Praw of Porter Ranch wrote. “It has changed hands, but it’s still there, and every bit a good as the other delis listed in your column. In fact, if you order kreplach soup, it’s way better than some other places.”

Allow me to eat crow. Although I’d rather have kreplach. While I didn’t hear from Mort’s, and hope I did not cause them any tsuris (“trouble; aggravation”), I apologize for the flub.

Based on response to that column, many of you love Jewish delis and are happy to kibitz about them.

I had mentioned six delis in L.A. County — Canter’s, Langer’s, Art’s, Brent’s, Nate ‘n Al’s and Wexler’s — where I have eaten over the years, with Langer’s as my favorite. A few of you named your own favorites.

Katella Deli in Orange County was cited by both Bud Weisbart of Fontana and Carol Houghton of Chino as well worth the drive. Houghton added, “It has a bakery to die for.”

Uncle Bernie’s in Encino was contributed by an unnamed reader. Benjies NY Deli in Santa Ana and Factor’s Famous Deli near Beverly Hills were plugged by Samuel R. Wasserson.

The paucity of Jewish delis in the Inland Empire and San Gabriel Valley was noted by some of you. Sherman’s and Manhattan in the Desert, both in Palm Springs, are the only ones in the Inland Empire.

Greene’s Delicatessen, long gone, served Pomona and then Claremont for many years, Karen Rosenthal of Claremont recalled.

“It was run by Joseph and Anne Greene, who lived in Claremont,” Rosenthal said. “One of the workers drove to the San Fernando Valley every day or so for breads and bagels.”

Barry Beck lives in Riverside, which he called “a Jewish deli desert,” where he said it’s 60 miles east to Sherman’s or 60 miles west to Langer’s.

“So, reading your column reminded me how much I hunger for a meal at a Jewish deli, but it’s too damn far to go regularly,” Beck lamented. He added: “My friend who lives in L.A. always kids me that the best Jewish deli in Riverside is Subway.”

Ouch. And you’d hope California’s 11th-largest city could support one measly Jewish deli. But perhaps not. They’re harder to find anywhere.

As I pointed out in that column, I am not a member of the tribe. But as an adventurous diner, this gentile does like a good deli, and even, in the case of the Skirball, a good museum exhibit about delis.

“I’ll take your word for it that you’re just a WASP who likes to eat out,” wrote Susan Wolfson of Glendale, “but I hereby extend you an invitation to become an honorary MOT (member of the tribe) on the basis of this affectionate review of the Skirball exhibit.”

Does this honor include cake? Just a little piece, please, not a corner.

“You showed excellent knowledge and understanding of the Jewish American experience as well as very good Yiddish vocabulary,” Wolfson continued. “Substitute ‘schmalz’ for ‘chicken fat’ and you’d have put most of us garden-variety Jews to shame.”

I’m just relieved Wolfson didn’t think my column was schmegegge (“baloney; hot air; nonsense”) or even schlock (“cheap or inferior goods or material; trash”).

Now, back to Mort’s Deli. I had to go to L.A. on Saturday and, feeling guilty, made a side trip to Tarzana for lunch at Mort’s (18452 Clark St.). Inside, the walls are lined with New York posters, including a subway map.

I got a half pastrami on rye, plus coleslaw. The pastrami was sliced so thinly, it was a marvel, stacked probably 20 layers high.

I tried to order the kreplach, as reader Sam Praw had suggested, but Mort’s hadn’t made any that day. Ah well. I settled for soup with a fluffy matzo ball instead.

Afterward, as I was in line at the cashier to pay my tab, I spotted an old Daily News feature by Dana Bartholomew on display that told the restaurant’s history. Mort’s was founded in 1968 by Mort Medway, who in 2012, at age 86, had just sold the deli to Lana Pavlick and Gary Drexler. According to Mort’s website, they still run it today.

Based on my meal, and the number of people in the dining room, Mort’s seems to have been placed in good hands. Take it from an honorary member of the tribe.

Some of us are now using city-provided plastic kitchen pails to collect our food waste before dumping the contents into our green landscaping barrels. Not everyone is clear on how this is supposed to work. In the “Here and There” column in the Chino Valley Champion, a Chino Hills resident observed that “someone on my street actually put their little green pail on the curb for pickup.”

David Allen writes Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, speaking of trash. Email dallen@scng.com, phone 909-483-9339, like davidallencolumnist on Facebook and follow @davidallen909 on Twitter. 

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